34 Pockets
Sheri Deaton
Pockets
Pockets here, pockets there, look around and you will find pockets everywhere! Jeans, shirts, skirts, dresses, aprons, and handbags are just a few of the many places you will see pockets. Some pockets are for decoration, yet many are for function. Pockets come in all sizes, shapes, and applications.
Knowing how to properly create and install a pocket is an essential skill for every fashionista to work through so they can accomplish this skill which is found in a variety of projects.
There are over thirteen categories for pockets outlined by Treasurie in their blog Types of Pockets: Best Style Guide. Check it out!
Perfect Patch Pockets
Just like there are many different styles, applications, and functions of pockets, there are many different techniques to use when installing pockets or altering a garment to include pockets. Always follow the pattern instruction sheet developed by the manufacturer of the pattern you are using. The following guidelines can be followed to create a simple patch pocket.
- Make the pattern. Figure out the size and shape of the pocket you would like to add and draw it on a piece of paper.
TIP: For a symmetrical pattern, consider folding the paper in ½ and then tracing the design. Keep the paper in ½ as you add the seam allowance and as you cut the pattern. Use heavy-weight paper such as construction paper or cardboard to assist those new to pattern creation.
- Add a seam allowance. I prefer to add ½” seam allowance to allow for extra room for sewing corners or curves.
- Cut out the pattern.
- Pin the pattern to two pieces of fabric. Consider using natural fibers or natural fiber blends due to their ability to withstand high heat when pressed or ironed.
TIP: For extra stability, consider using a layer of fusible interfacing. This will not only add stability and structure to your pocket, but it will bulk up thin fabrics making them more durable.
- After cutting out the patterns, transfer the stitching lines to the wrong sides of the fabric to ensure you have the correct shape and width of seam allowances.
TIP: This step can be skipped if you are confident in your abilities to sew a straight and consistent seam allowance. Use tailor’s chalk or a fabric pencil or marker that will be easily laundered out of the fabric you are using.
- Placing the two right sides together, stitch the pocket pieces together all around, leaving a gap wide enough for two of your fingers to fit through (approximately 1 ½ to 2”). Leave this opening on one of the straight sides of the pocket, on the side, or the bottom of the pocket.
- Clip the corners and the curves as needed. Clipping is where you cut slits equal distance apart and equal depths into the seam allowance. This is done on all seams with an inside or concave curve to prevent bunching and promote a smooth finish. Clipping allows the concave curve to stretch out and adjust when it is matched up with its convex counterpart. Clipping is an essential step whe