9 Altering Patterns
Sheri Deaton
Altering Patterns
The goal behind creating a garment or article of clothing is for it to be a well-fitting and attractive final product (Westfall, 2013). Anything less than this is not acceptable. Understanding that every person has a unique shape and size, we understand that commercial patterns may not be the perfect fit for each person.
Knowing how to alter a pattern for apparel production or home furnishings is an important skill. Alterations made to the pattern before pinning and cutting out the fabric can save time, effort, and energy on the back end of the project (Deaton, 2021).
Steps for Success
- Read the pattern envelope. Look for keywords such as loose-fitting, fitted, semi-fitted, or close-fitting. These adjectives can give you an idea of what the final product will look like and how it will fit your body structure.
- Look for the ease allocation on the pattern instruction sheet. When we discuss ease in apparel production, we are talking about the amount of extra fabric allowed in a garment’s production to make the item comfortable (Westfall, 2013).
- According to Westfall (2013), the following are minimum ease allowances:
- Chest or bust–3-4 inches
- Waist– ½ inch
- Hips–1 inch (snug fit) or 2 inches (roomy fit)
- On the pattern envelope, find the finished garment measurements. Consider these numbers in comparison with your body measurements.
- Utilize a variety of resources to assist your understanding of the alteration process. Just like there is “more than one way to Wal-Mart” (Deaton, 2021), there is more than one way to alter a pattern. Evaluate the following resources as you seek to adjust patterns to best fit your body to create a well-balanced and comfortable garment.
Altering Sewing Patterns General Advice
The more you understand about altering patterns, the more confidence you can have in your own competence when it comes to altering manufactured patterns to meet your personal body shape, style, and comfort levels. Debbie Colgrove (2019) published this all-encompassing article of advice for altering sewing patterns. Check out her Spruce Crafts page and the suggestions she has for how to alter any sewing pattern.
Altering Crotch Depth
For many individuals, the standard crotch depth allowed in manufactured patterns is not appropriate for their body shape. The crotch of a garment should fit comfortably, allowing movement but not puckering or folding in awkward or unflattering places. The following resources have specific details concerning how to alter the crotch depth for a variety of garments designed to cover the lower portion of the body.
Terra Jennings (2018) shows step-by-step how to adjust for crotch and booty depth for joggers.
LLadyBird (2018) shared a step-by-step process for adjusting for crotch depth on pants.
Beth at Sew DIY (2019) created a video and step-by-step tutorial for how to lengthen or shorten the rise of a pants pattern. This tutorial could be helpful for adjustments mad