58 Adventures with Turtles
Rick Bein
Sea Turtles nest on most tropical beaches around the world. Many countries are now engaged in preserving these endangered species. This effort is long term since many of the turtles do not sexually mature for decades. The Leatherback, for example, only begins nesting when it becomes 30 years of age.
My first experience with sea turtles happened when I was working in a coastal village in Papua New Guinea (PNG). I had always heard of sea turtles as an endangered species, but never from a firsthand perspective. I had been working on contract with the NGO Village Development Trust (VDT) whose purpose was to conserve environments in Papua New Guinea. They had established an introductory relationship with the village of Lababia located forty miles south of the town of Lei along the east coast on the Solomon Sea. Their approach was two-fold: 1) create a scientific research station and 2) develop an eco-tourist program.
Papua New Guinea, by the Australian Geology survey. 2007.
As a visiting professor at Papua New Guinea University of Technology (UNITEC) in Lei, I was on an Asian Development exchange Grant to develop an Environmental Research Management Center on campus. My mission was to develop an environment focus among the academic departments through their teaching and research programs. VDT contracted me to build a research transect from the Lababia Village extending up the 6000-foot Blue Mountain behind. Being a pristine rainforest, the transect would provide a path for biologists to sample the unique fauna and flora.
Over the next two years my efforts extended beyond the mountain transect and I became involved with the Kamiali people, the residents of Lababia Village. The Kamiali thrive along their 15-mile-long coast engaging in fishing and gardening. The villagers invited me to experience much of their way of life. At one point, I discovered that their extended beach was a nesting habitat for Leather back turtles.
My visiting stepdaughter, Candy Riggins and friend observing a nesting turtle on the Kamiali’s beach. Photo by Rick Bein 1997.
I spent some time observing the female turtles coming on the beach and creating nests, laying their eggs, and returning to the ocean. I also became aware that none of the eggs ever hatched because the villagers dug them up and consumed all of them. I asked if any hatchling turtles were ever seen. The answer was “no.”
Villager standing beside a nest, showing turtle eggs impaled on a stick. Photo by Rick Bein 1997
I decided to consult Levi Ambio, with whom I worked closely building the transect. Levi explained that the Kamiali considered the turtle eggs their gift from the universe and that it was their right to eat them. I asked him how the turtles would continue to nest if there were no new turtles to replace the old ones.
That notion struck home, and we began talking about how the villagers could give up this annual treat. He thought that would be difficult, but he said he w