Chapter 2 – Barbering Tools and Products
2.1 Barbering Tools
In Level 1 Hairstylist, you learned about the tools that are used for haircutting, including their parts and functions. Let’s explore the tools that are used for facial hair design and hair removal in both the nape and facial areas.
Shears
Shears are used for haircuts to remove length and bulk and to create the shape of the design. A shear-over-comb technique is used for the removal of nape hair, facial hair design, and the trimming of eyebrows. In addition, shears can be used to remove hair entirely by placing the blades flat against the skin. However, when extreme closeness is desired, clippers, trimmers, or a razor are preferable to shears because they create a closer result.
Video: Using Shears to Trim the Side of a Beard
Note: Video has no sound.
Clippers
Clippers are used for various techniques when performing a hair reduction service, such as length removal and blending, or to remove the majority of the hair prior to a shaving service. There are many styles of clippers available. Some features to consider when purchasing a clipper are size, weight, performance, and power supply (corded or cordless).
Many clippers come with a standard set of blades attached and rely on additional guard attachments to determine the length the hair will be cut. Alternatively, some brands of clippers have detachable blades in various sizes that are designed to cut the hair to different lengths without the need for a guard attachment.
Why use a clipper and not a trimmer? Clippers are useful for working on larger areas or where a large amount of hair needs to be reduced or removed.
Trimmers
The trimmer is a smaller, more compact version of the clipper. This makes the trimmer ideal for detailing, refining, and outlining a haircut or facial design, and trimming eyebrows. The trimmer is also referred to as an outliner or edger.
Trimmers come in a variety of blade widths and designs (i.e., straight or T-shaped blade). Their use depends on the barber/stylist’s preference, or on specific design techniques used in particular areas of the face and nape.
Trimmers have a much finer cutting blade than that of clippers, so when used with light pressure on the skin they can effectively remove the hair without discomfort. Keep in mind that using too much pressure with a trimmer/outliner runs the same risk of causing abrasions or irritation as the larger clipper.
Guards
Guards are attachments that are made to fit clippers and trimmers. They enable the hair to be cut to an even, predetermined length. Guards are most often made of hard plastic. However, there are rubber and steel varieties available as well.
Due to the rigidity of the guards, there may be a loss of tension throughout the cutting process. This loss of tension can result in lines, ridges, or uneven results in the final design. To avoid imperfections when using a guarded clipper, use multiple passes from multiple directions to ensure an even and blended o