Chapter 4 – Remove Facial and Nape Hair
4.1 Introduction to the Straight Razor Shave
The straight razor provides the closest, smoothest shave possible. It is a sharp tool that should be used with caution, as it requires skill and a steady hand.
Before we get started with the straight razor shave service, let’s first review the following topics:
- The pre-shave consultation
- Razor handling
- Razor strokes and corresponding shaving areas
- Types of shaves
- How to hone and strop the razor
The Pre-Shave Consultation
During the pre-shave consultation, the barber/stylist will assess:
- The skin
- Growth patterns
- Medical issues/concerns
- Skin sensitivities
Keep in mind that face shape and head shape need to be considered if a partial shave is to be performed, such as a beard shave with a moustache shaping.
Before assessing the client’s skin and growth patterns, it is a good idea to inquire about their use of facial products and/or medications. Some medications and skin care products, such as Accutane and Retinol, can cause the skin to be more sensitive and easily irritated by the shave process. This is also the time to find out if the client has had other sensitivities in the past, such as a reaction to shaving products, an acne breakout after shaving, or whether they have an aversion to the application of hot or cold towels.
Now it’s time to assess the skin prior to the straight shave service. Carefully check the area that is to be shaved for blemishes, moles, or any lesions of the skin. Additionally, if you plan to perform an outline and nape shave, be sure to check the nape area, sides of neck, and behind the ears. Provided there is no communicable skin diseases, open wounds, or skin irritation, it is safe to perform the shave service. Always use caution when working around moles and any other raised areas of the skin.
Razor Handling
Razor Components
Before moving on to the razor handling procedure, take a moment to familiarize yourself with the components that make up the standard straight razor. If you have your own razor, lay it open on the table in front of you and identify its parts using the diagram below:
Razor Handling Procedure
Once you have familiarized yourself with the components of the razor, have a look at the images and instructions below. We suggest that you follow along to practice the procedures to open, hold, and close the razor.
Once you have familiarized yourself with the components of the razor, have a look at the images and instructions below. We suggest that you follow along to practice the procedures to open, hold, and close the razor.
- Open the razor using the thumb and index finger from your dominant hand to grip the back of the blade. Thumb on one side, index finger on the other side.
- The pivot allows for the blade and handle to separate. At this time, shift the little finger of your dominant hand to place it on the tang while the handle is poised into an upward position.
- The razor must be held by the shank near