Chapter 4 – Lightening Virgin Hair and Regrowth
4.3 Application Process: Global Lightening Service – Oxidative Colour
Tools and Supplies Required
- Colour safe gloves
- Colour cape
- Towels
- Hair clips
- Brush and Comb
- Colour Key
- Colour Bowl
- Weigh Scale
- Tint Brushes-
- Standard 2 inch
- Wide standard 3–4 inch (optional)
- Cotton (optional)
- Foil/Balayage Board (optional)
Application
Prepare your client for their oxidative colour lightening service by performing the following procedure:
- Drape your client using towels and a colour cape. First, place a towel around the client’s shoulders. Then, fasten the colour cape loosely, allowing just enough room to tuck a towel into the outside of the cape. This provides a surface to lay the coloured hair on, which will keep the colour cape clean. If your client has very long hair, tuck the outside towel in so that it lays lengthwise (see following photo).
- Ensure that the hair is fully dry.
- Brush through the hair to remove tangles
- Section and divide the hair into 4 quadrants using your comb and clips. Section nose to nape, then ear to ear.
Before we get into the application of the oxidative colour, let’s pause for a moment to review the different areas, or zones, of the hair. Keep in mind that we are referring to virgin hair in this chapter, so the following does not account for any chemical influences.
- Zone 1, or the regrowth area, is the area of the hair that sits within the first ½ to ¾ inches from the scalp. This zone is also referred to as the “Hot Zone” when colouring, as the heat from the scalp will encourage the hair to process more quickly.
- Zone 2, or the mid-lengths, contains the segment of hair that sits between Zone 1 and the more porous ends. Generally, this hair will have a healthier structure and will process the most predictably according to manufacturers guidelines.
- Zone 3, or the ends, generally contains the most porous hair on the head. Not everyone will have a Zone 3. This is the case with shorter hair or hair that has an even average porosity from roots to ends. In instances where the porosity is more extreme through the ends, this hair will process more quickly and is more likely to soak up any cool tones added to the colour formula.
Once you have prepared the client for their colour service, gathered your tools and supplies, and mixed up your oxidative colour formula:
- Don your gloves
- Begin your application in the darkest sections. Generally, this will be the back two quadrants, as the hair around the face tends to be lighter and easier to lift.
- Beginning at the bottom of the quadrant and working upwards, use ¼ inch subsections/partings and apply your colour only to Zone 2, ½ inch to ¾ inch away from the scalp, and through the mid-lengths. We begin in Zone 2 as this area is typically slower to process than Zones 1 and 3. You may choose to use your wider tint brush for this area for maximum efficiency and saturation. Be sure to saturate the hair fully on eithe