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Did some testing with MongoMapper last week, it was stable but I found the query interface a little limited (also some of the AR logic was quirky), switched to Mongoid today and it feels much better to use - and more intuitive if you are used to AR.
No speed conclusions yet - but the switch over was painless - it works with Rails 3 too.
I used both of them and they are about to equals in functionality, but look at it's code stats

It looks like MongoMapper has much better code quality (if it does the same with less).
You can calculate this stats by Yourself, here's the analyzer https://github.com/alexeypetrushin/code_stats