Chapter 2 – The Consultation
2.3 Colour Assessment
A good colour consultation covers the following bases:
- Existing level, tone, and percentage of grey
- Target level and tone
- Underlying pigment at target level (if going lighter).
Below is an example of a colour consultation template:
| Existing level and tone | |
| Grey % | |
| Target level and tone | |
| Darker or Lighter? | |
| Underlying pigment |
Existing Colour
To begin with, you must assess the client’s existing level and tone. Consider the hair’s existing colour as your starting point, which is essential to know before making a plan to achieve the desired result!
Level can be determined by using the natural swatches in your preferred colour line. Hold the natural swatch against the hair, starting at the root level and proceeding along the hair strand, to assess the closest level match between 1-10.
Remember to look for variances of level in different areas of the head, as well as throughout the length of the hair strand. If there is previous artificial colour, it should be fairly simple to spot these discrepancies. It is important to determine whether there is artificial colour present, as this will have an impact on the structure of the hair as well as the colouring process itself. Ask your client to give you an overview of their colour history, including all colour services performed in the previous two years. Having knowledge of your client’s colour history will allow you to determine any surprises that may be hiding underneath their current hue.
To assess the tone of the existing hair, hold a section of hair towards the light, and look for the predominant tone where the light hits the hair strand. Use your colour wheel and colour manufacturer’s swatches to help you determine whether you are seeing a warm or cool tone. If the hair reflects neither predominantly warm nor cool, you can consider it neutral.
If there are multiple areas with different levels and tonalities, such as in a colour correction service, assess each area individually. You may need multiple steps and formulations in such a case. Chapter 7 – Corrective Colour will address this process in more detail.
Grey Percentage
Next step is to determine whether the client’s hair contains any grey, and if so, at what percentage. The percentage of grey will affect your formulation. This is because grey hair tends to be more resistant and requires the replacement of missing melanin.
| Percent Grey | Developer | Natural shade | Fashion shade |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0-30% grey | 40ml 20vol | 10ml | 30ml |
| 30-60% grey | 40ml 20vol | 20ml | 20ml |
| 60-100% grey | 40ml 20vol | 30ml | 10ml |
In the chart above, you will see a general mixing ratio for grey coverage. Most colour lines offer distinct mixing ratios and products for varying concentrations of grey hair, but the general rule is that you must include a “natural” shade, along with your fashion shade choice, within your formula. It is these natural colours that contain the bal