Chapter 3 – Product Selection and Formulation
3.1 Colouring Products
Now comes time to choose a colouring product to use. But first, recap the necessary steps that got you to this point!
- Assess hair and scalp
- Porosity, elasticity and texture
- Existing level and tone
- Percentage of grey
- Perform a thorough client consultation
- Determine target level and tone
- Discuss maintenance, commitment, and budget
Next, you must:
- Select an appropriate colouring product based on:
- Lift or deposit
- Grey coverage
- Hair assessment
- Lasting ability
- Application technique
- Consider existing tone/ underlying pigment
- Select appropriate tools and supplies for selected application technique
Depositing, or Going Darker
Let’s first compare options for depositing, or going darker:
| Oxidative | Non-oxidative | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Permanent | Demi-permanent | Semi-permanent | Temporary | |
| pH | 9–11 + | 6–9 | 6–8 | 6–8 |
| Regrowth | Yes | Subtle | No | No |
| Grey hair | Full coverage | Blending | Light blending | No |
| Lasting ability* | Until colour grows out | 4–6 weeks | 2–4 weeks | Until hair is shampooed |
| Mixing ratio[1] | 1:1 | 2:1 | No mixing required | No mixing required |
| Processing time[2] | 30–40 minutes | 20–30 minutes | 20–30 minutes | 0–20 minutes |
| Uses/Ideal hair types |
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| Techniques |
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*Lasting ability is calculated under ideal circumstances. Durability can be affected by:
- Porosity – hair that is overly porous tends to lose artificial colour and fade more quickly.
- Products – shampoos and products that are not formulated for coloured hair may cause fading. Hair that is frequently heat styled without heat protective products will also fade more quickly.
- Environment – factors such as sun exposure, pollution and poor water quality will all have an adverse effect on colour durability.
Some additional factors to think about when considering hair type and condition:
Depositing colour on healthy, medium textured hair is usually a pretty straightforward and predictable process. This is because the condition of this hair type does not generally have any porosity concerns, which means you may follow the manufacturers guidelines for your colour line to achieve optimal results.
Fine Hair Considerations
When depositing colour/going darker on fine hair:
- Fine hair is generally not resistant to absorbing colour. Choose a colouring product with a lower pH, such as Semi or Demi-Permanent, to maintain the integrity of the hair strand.
- Fine hair tends to process darker than the intended level, especially if extreme porosity is present. It is recommended to formulate a colour that is one level lighter than the desired level.
- Fine hair that has been previously treated with oxidative colour products is more likely to be highly porous. A colouring product that is too alkaline will swell the already compromised hair strand and result in breakage or further damage.
Coarse Hair Considerations
When depositing colour/ go